Uncategorized | Alliance Turf, Shrub and Pest

Fall armyworm: Biology and Management in Georgia Turfgrass

November 20, 2024/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

Written by Shimat V. Joseph

August 18, 2024

The fall armyworm, Spodoptera frugiperda (J. E. Smith) (Fig. 1), is native to North America. Fall armyworm caterpillars are identified with an “inverted Y-shaped” sign on their head capsule (Fig. 1A). Fall armyworms are active throughout the year in the tropical region of Florida (from Tampa to Miami), southern Texas, and northern Mexico. Fall armyworm moths are dispersed yearly from these regions to the northern US states, including Georgia, through weather fronts, such as storms and wind currents (Fig. 2). They reach Georgia in the spring or early summer, and caterpillars are noticed in turfgrass mostly early July. The exact timing of their arrival in Georgia from tropical regions is subject to weather conditions and varies every year (Fig. 3). When weather activity is in certain years, more moths arrive, which causes a high population to begin with. Regardless of when they arrive, they can go through at least two or three generations in Georgia, and their populations will grow rapidly as we pass the summer and fall (Fig. 3). The wet conditions in the summer increase their chances for young, tiny caterpillars to survive better than in drought conditions. However, relatively dry conditions with high temperatures support older caterpillars as they thrive in the summer. By the end of the fall, entire fall armyworm populations in Georgia die as they cannot survive the freezing conditions (Fig. 3).

Fig. 1. Late-stage fall armyworm caterpillar. Photo credits: A, Steve L. Brown, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org; B, Robert Wolverton; C, Clemson University – USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series , Bugwood.org; D, Charles T. Bryson, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org; and E, Frank Peairs, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org

Fig. 2. Dispersal and introduction of fall armyworm moths via storms and air currents every year from southern Florida and Texas in the late spring and summer. Photo: Google Maps.

Fig. 3. Incidence of fall armyworm problem in Georgia. Fall armyworm moth photo, Robert J. Bauernfeind, Kansas State University, Bugwood.org; illustration, Theresa Villanassery

Lifecycle

The lifecycle of the fall armyworm is illustrated in Fig. 4. The fall armyworm moths are active at night. After mating, they lay eggs in batches (egg mass). A single egg mass consists of 50-200 eggs, and it appears as a cottony, fussy patch (Fig. 5A). For example, if you see ten egg masses near lawns, it means more than approximately 1000 fall armyworm caterpillars are produced infesting the lawn. They can lay eggs on any surface or structure near a lawn, such as a flag, fence, pole, storage shed, barn, exterior wall (of the house), trees along a wood line, and plants (in a garden), patio, etc. (Fig. 5B-E). All eggs in each mass hatch within 2-3 days at about the same time. These tiny caterpillars aggregate for some time where eggs are laid (Fig. 6A), then leave the site using a thin web and land on turfgrass (Fig. 6B). Caterpillars must feed on the grass within a few hours after the egg hatch. Young caterpillars remain inside the turfgrass and feed on grass blades mostly at night. They reach two inches long when they grow into the fourth and fifth caterpillar stages (Fig. 4). Late-stage caterpillars are aggressive feeders and active during the day and nighttime. In the summer, they take 2-3 weeks before pupating. The fifth stage caterpillars drop from leaves on the soil surface, and then they bore into the soil for pupae (Fig. 7). As an inactive and non-feeding stage, dark brown pupae remain in the soil for a little over a week before emerging as moths (Fig. 8). After a week, the new adults mate and start laying eggs again. In the summer of Georgia, a generation (from egg to moth) is completed within four weeks.

Fall armyworm moths can be everywhere in Georgia during the summer. It is considered a sporadic pest because they are introduced every year from Florida and Texas. The timing and intensity of infestation can vary from location to location.

Damage

The third, fourth, and fifth stages of fall armyworm caterpillars are destructive to turfgrass (Fig. 1). The younger stages (1-3 larval stages) are so tiny that it is hard to determine if the turfgrass is infested with fall armyworm. The green turfgrass will gradually turn brown as the caterpillars grow into the third, fourth, and fifth larval stages. The damaged turfgrass may appear diseased or have experienced drought (Fig. 9). Young caterpillars do well with some moisture (via rain), but late-stage caterpillars do well with dry conditions. Often, moths are introduced to Georgia via back-to-back storms, and when the egg masses hatch, it is mostly during moist conditions. Fall armyworm caterpillars tend to do less feeding damage on healthy than unhealthy turfgrass. Proper fertilizer application, regular mowing, and irrigation will help produce healthy turfgrass. Fertilizer with phosphorus will help with a strong root system that can tolerate feeding damage from fall armyworm caterpillars when that occurs.

Usually, the affected turfgrass grows within 3-4 weeks after mild to moderate infestations with fertilization and irrigation, but re-sodding may be required under severe infestations (Fig. 10), where caterpillars feed on the entire stolon (stem) of turfgrass.

Fig. 9. Fall armyworm caterpillar feeding damage on bermudagrass lawns. Photo credits: A, Ryan Hodgson; B, E, Shimat V Joseph; C, Robert Wolverton; D, Brian Schwartz.

Fig. 10. Severe fall armyworm caterpillar infestation. Photo credit: Robert Wolverton

Monitoring

Because the fall armyworm problem recurs yearly from July to September and the incidence is sporadic, it is important to check for the presence of egg masses as an early detection strategy. Check for egg masses on any structure near turfgrass (Fig. 5). No threshold exists to correlate with damage. The more egg masses there are, the more caterpillars there are and the more damage there is. Please act with band applications of insecticides when you see many egg masses.

The second approach is when you see any signs of feeding damage on the turfgrass. The damage is usually initiated in the turfgrass near the edge or border of a structure where eggs are laid (Fig. 5). Drench or pour soap water into the brown turfgrass where you see the damage (Fig. 11). If present, late stages of fall armyworm caterpillars will wiggle out from the turfgrass. Please take immediate action if the damage is due to the fall armyworm feeding, which will reduce further damage to turfgrass.

Fig. 11. Monitoring before or after insecticide application by pouring soapy water on turfgrass. If fall armyworm caterpillars are present, they will emerge from turfgrass on the turfgrass surface. Photo credit: https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/controlling-fall-armyworms-on-lawns-and-turf/.

Management

Early detection via monitoring egg masses on structures would indicate fall armyworm activity in an area starting in July in Georgia. At this stage, they are likely young caterpillars (1-3 stage larvae) hiding inside the turfgrass canopy. Band application of insecticides, such as Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. kurstaki around structures (Fig. 4) or pyrethroid insecticides, such as bifenthrin, permethrin, deltamethrin, etc., will help. Predators, especially ants, ground beetles, and earwigs, are abundant in turfgrass. Maintaining turfgrass with minimal insecticide application will help healthy predator populations in turfgrass. Predators are active during nighttime and effective even at high temperatures in Georgia summer. However, the sudden, overwhelming population of fall armyworm infestations in the late summer or fall require insecticide applications. Similarly, parasitoids (tiny hymenopteran wasps or tachinid flies) can parasitize fall armyworm caterpillars, but high infestations make it difficult to catch up.

Once caterpillars increase in size, chlorantraniliprole insecticide might be the best option. Tetraniliprole insecticide is an additional option for golf courses and athletic fields that can effectively reduce fall armyworm caterpillars. Pyrethroid insecticides may not provide adequate control as caterpillars are in the late stages. Insect growth regulator insecticides, such as diflubenzuron, pyriproxyfen, and azadirachtin, could be added along with pyrethroid to improve efficacy because insect growth regulators affect the growth of caterpillars, especially on the second—and third-stage caterpillars. Pouring soapy water regularly on the affected spots in the turfgrass where the applications were made will help you track if the application reduced caterpillar activity. The number of caterpillars emerging from turfgrass should be lower after days of application.

Bermudagrass is a popular turfgrass type in Georgia and is susceptible to fall armyworm caterpillar infestation. Bemudagrass cultivar ‘TifTuf’ can tolerate some attacks than other bermudagrass cultivars as it grows quicker. Fall armyworm caterpillar infestation is lower or limited on zoysiagrass (such as ‘Zeon,’ ‘Emerald,’ and ‘Zenith’) than on bermudagrass or centipedegrass. St. Augustinegrass is also susceptible to fall armyworm infestations.

If new sod is planted, make sure they are regularly monitored using soapy water, and immediate insecticide applications are made as they are more vulnerable to fall armyworm infestation than already established turfgrass. Please refer to the article “Armyworms in Sod” (https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=C1130&title=armyworms-in-sod) if you planted new sod and is infested with fall armyworm caterpillars.

For more specific insecticide recommendations, consult the GA Pest Management Handbook or your local County Extension Agent. Please read the label before using insecticide because the insecticide label is the Law.

Warm-season Grass Green-up

November 20, 2024/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

By Clint Waltz, Ph.D.
University of Georgia Turfgrass Specialist

Turfgrass Spring Blog #1:
2023 Edition

As a University of Georgia Cooperative Extension turfgrass specialist, I have received numerous calls and emails over the past couple of weeks regarding warm-season turfgrass “green-up” issues.

Fortunately, my travel schedule has taken me statewide over the past month. I have had opportunity to see grass over an array of Georgia’s climatic conditions (i.e. South to North Georgia). Most years slow growth is not as consistent statewide as it has been this year.

Simply stated, green-up of warm-season turfgrass has been stalled through most of March, April, and first week of May. Despite the low temperatures associated with the “Christmas Freeze” (December 23 to 26, 2022), December, January and February were relatively warm, giving a false sense of an early spring green-up. When March cool temperatures arrived, grass growth stalled.

From what I have seen since statewide since the “Christmas Freeze”, I am not convinced that this particular weather event had a long-term or detrimental effect on warm-season turfgrasses.

The most recent conditions are more likely influencing spring green-up and growth. Here’s what’s happened in early 2023:

• Using data and observations from the UGA Griffin Campus weather station as an indicator,during March and April there was only one night (April 6) where the low temperature did not fall below 65° F.
• There were three (3) frost events in March (15, 16, and 21).
• From April 30 through May 5, the low temperatures were in the 40’s – six (6) consecutive nights. These conditions resulted in 4-inch soil temperatures struggling to reach the mid-60’s, when warm-season turfgrasses initiate rooting and active growth.
• My comments to the calls and emails have been that our grasses have been “sitting on go” just waiting for favorable environmental conditions.

Our grasses have been green but not growing, up (e.g. no clippings) or filling-in thin areas. I have complaints from sod producers, landscapers, and homeowners of grass not responding to fertilizer applications. Considering the air and soil temperatures of March and April, these complaints are not surprising or agronomically unfounded. It can be difficult, and frustrating, to tell clients that there is not much we can do but be patient, and let’s reevaluate in a few weeks once environmental conditions become more favorable for growth.

Temperatures this week (May 7 to present) have been more conducive for growth and the 10-day forecast is encouraging. Warm, daytime and nighttime temperatures are what the doctor ordered.

Going forward, maintain the basic agronomics for the growth of warm-season turfgrasses. Maintaining proper mowing heights, not over-irrigating, and applying proper fertility are good practices and will pay dividends as we move from spring into summer.

Zoysiagrass Green-up

November 20, 2024/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

By Clint Waltz, Ph.D. – University of Georgia Turfgrass Specialist

Turfgrass Spring Blog #1:
2021 Edition: Zoysiagrass Green-up

As a University of Georgia Cooperative Extension turfgrass specialist, I have received numerous calls and emails over the past couple of weeks about zoysiagrass “green-up” issues. Interestingly this is the second consecutive spring / early summer that zoysiagrass has come to my attention. Over the past 20 years, spring zoysiagrass problems have sporadic or nonexistent.

This year zoysiagrass problems are falling into a few broad categories – disease, rot, and environmental. The disease issues primarily revolve around the fungus that causes large patch (Rhizoctonia solani). For information on identification and control of large patch, look for UGA Circular 1088 at www.GeorgiaTurf.com. Because mid- to late spring has been relatively dry, there has been minimal active large patch causing disease. Irrigated lawns can be the exception. Instead, most of the pictures and descriptions being reported this spring are from disease that occurred last fall. If the grass went into dormancy diseased, it does not recover during the winter and is “weak” as it begins to transition to active growth the following spring. The effect of fall large patches are still evident in the early spring and the presumption is the grass is struggling. Green-up can be slowed further with poor spring growing conditions – see below. If residual disease is the cause for concern, patience is encouraged. As environmental conditions become more conducive for zoysiagrass, it will typically recover from the previous year’s disease. To minimize this next year, a preventative fungicide program this September and October might be considered.

September 2020 was wet with about “normal” rainfall through the rest of the winter. As zoysiagrass was beginning to green-up, March 2021 was wetter than the previous two years. In areas with poor drainage and thatch, rotted roots, stolons, and rhizomes have been routinely observed. These areas have bare, wet soil with sporadic green zoysiagrass shoots. It is not universal, but the finer textured zoysiagrass cultivars seem to be more impacted by these conditions than the medium to coarse textured cultivars. To help the zoysiagrass recover this summer, rake-out the dead grass and core aerate to stimulate any surviving rhizomes to initiate new shoots. For long-term improvement, consider improving drainage around downspouts and leveling “bird baths” where water collects.

The last broad category is the impact of environmental conditions this spring. The “Easter freeze” followed by a cold snap the 3rd week of April, then a third in mid-May have zoysiagrass, and other warm-season grasses, stuck in first gear. To this point in the season, grasses have greened-up but have not began aggressive growth. As I have traveled around the state the past 3 weeks, turfgrass have had a “malnourished” appearance. This “look” can be attributed to the cool snaps keeping the 4-inch soil temperatures cooler than the past 3 years, especially for May. “Drought-ish” conditions may have also contributed to the light color and lack of growth. Environmental conditions can accentuate other problems, like recovery from carry-over large patch. Through mid-June, air and soil temperatures are getting into more favorable conditions for zoysiagrass growth. Additionally, rainfall has been more timely, promoting growth and improving color.

Going forward, maintain the basic agronomics for the growth of zoysiagrass. The mowing heigh range is 1.0 to 1.5 inches. Zoysiagrasses do not require a lot of nitrogen fertilizer, about 2.0 lbs N / 1000 ft2 / year – about 0.5 lb N / 1000 ft2 / month in May, June, July, and August. Irrigation should supplement rainfall and not exceed 1.0-inch / week when rainfall is limited.

Annual Bluegrass Herbicide Resistance

November 20, 2024/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

Water Conservation for Lawns

September 4, 2020/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

By Clint Waltz, Ph.D. – University of Georgia Turfgrass Specialist

Turfgrass Spring Blog #4: 2020 Edition

All living things need water to survive, albeit a different amount for different organisms. For plants, supplemental water from irrigation is sometimes needed between natural rainfall events. Fortunately, turfgrass is a fairly robust plant that needs relatively little water for survival.

Many factors influence the amount and frequency of water needed for turfgrass within a home lawn. Soil type, type of grass, fertility level, frequency of rain, temperature, wind, and humidity all affect the amount of water needed. A high-level fertilization and hot, windy days tend to increase the demand for water, while low level fertilization and cool, cloudy days tend to decrease the demand for water.

One way of conditioning the turfgrass to need less supplemental irrigation or, to remain green between periodic summer rain showers is to tolerate some moisture stress. An observable characteristic of moisture stress in turfgrass is wilt. Wilt is a physiological defense mechanism of the turfgrass plant and allowing some moisture stress actually triggers the plant to initiate rooting, allowing the turfgrass to explore a greater soil volume for water reserves.

Before watering, look for visual symptoms of water stress, such as gray color, leaf cupping/curling, or footprints remaining on the lawn after it has been walked across. Observing some moisture stress within the lawn prior to applying irrigation can be good and improve the sustainability of the grass. Daily irrigation of turfgrass produces short roots incapable of tolerating periodic drought stress. Most established turfgrasses in Georgia only need 1.0 inch of water per week. Irrigation should be applied to supplement rainfall.

Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of 5 to 7 inches. Do not apply water until runoff occurs. If water is being applied faster than the soil can absorb it, turn the irrigation off and allow the existing moisture to move into the soil, then apply the remaining irrigation to achieve 1.0 inch.

Pay attention to the weather. Reduce the amount you water when it is raining or cloudy. Avoid irrigation schedules that apply more water than the turf may need. Prior to sunrise is the best time to water because of less wind and lower temperature. Research indicates water loss at night through evaporation may be 50 percent less than during midday irrigation.

Employing some best management practices (BMPs) like tolerating some wilt, allowing water to move into the soil, and not watering during the heat of the day can conserve water and maintain a healthy, attractive lawn.

Wet Weather Brings Out Mushrooms in Landscapes

August 31, 2020/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

Written by Carole Knight

Mushrooms are the visible structures of the unseen fungi growing in our landscapes. Think of mushrooms as the flowers and fruits of the fungi world. The mushrooms these fungi produce may cause a concern depending on where they are growing. Mushrooms and other fungal growths can be unsightly and are a concern since some may be toxic to children. They can be found growing in mulch, turf and landscape beds.

There are many types of mushrooms and other types of fungal growth including puffballs, stinkhorns and others. Slime molds, though not a fungus, can appear as a slimy, oily or powdery growth on lawns, mulches or wood.

Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to prevent mushrooms and similar organisms from growing. Many fungi get their energy from decomposing dead organic matter. They are actually a part of the natural recycling process. There are no chemicals that effectively kill all the fungi that cause mushrooms. You can remove the mushroom, but you must remove the fungus to keep the mushrooms from returning. To remove the fungus, you will need to remove the organic matter upon which it is growing.

There are several possible sources of food for fungi.

Buried wood, roots or other organic matter. Dig up and remove the source.
Thatch under lawns. De-thatching and aerating the lawn may reduce mushrooms.
Mulch, especially mulch that is too thick. (Greater than 3 to 4 inches in depth).
Piles of leaves, logs and limbs. Remove them if you need to discourage mushroom growth.

Even if you remove the food source, the mushrooms may still continue to grow. Removing the food should help to some extent. Mulches can be removed, properly composted and used again.

Some mulches are more prone to producing mushrooms and other fungal growth. Proper mulch selection, application and care can reduce mushroom problems.

Bark chips from mature, old pine or cypress trees decay more slowly and are less prone to mushroom problems than chips from other types of trees. However, this is only true of chips from old, mature trees. Chips from young pine or cypress trees do not have this advantage.
Wood or bark mulches from hardwood trees can be more prone to fungal problems than bark mulches from old pine or cypress trees. Composting these mulches before use will help reduce the chance of producing mushrooms.
Mulches from bark or wood products should be composted for at least 6 months before being used as mulch. Add a nitrogen source to the mulch and keep the mulch moist and turned during composting
Do not allow mulches to get dry. This leads to an increase in fungal activity. Then when the mulch gets wet again, mushrooms appear. Apply mulches 2 inches deep and wet the mulch well at application. Keep the mulch moist but not overly wet.
Finer textured wood or bark mulches can be more prone to problems. Use coarser textured mulches and/or apply mulches in a thinner layer.

Mushrooms that grow at the base of trees (also called conks) are usually an indication that the interior of the tree is decaying. This can indicate that a tree is at risk to fall. If you see mushrooms (or conks) attached to tree limbs or roots, contact a certified arborist to evaluate the tree to see if has become a hazard.

Another fungal problem we see in mulch piles involves hydrophobic fungi. When mulch is applied too deeply or is piled up in areas, the mulch can be infested by these fungi that waterproof the mulch. Water will then no longer able to penetrate the mulch and the plant roots can dry out and die – even though the plants are being watered. This is especially a problem with woody mulches that are applied too deeply. Dig into affected mulches and you will notice that they are dusty dry. To prevent problems, do not apply these mulches more than 2 inches deep.

In addition, mulch piled against the base of trees can lead to tree damage and death. Pull mulches slightly away from the trunks of all trees and shrubs.

Once you begin seeing mushrooms, it may be best to just ignore or remove the mushrooms you can see and wait for the fungus to quit producing more mushrooms. This can take a while depending on the fungus, weather, etc. These fungal fruiting structures are often short-lived but interesting to watch. Try to ‘enjoy’ your landscape oddity until it runs its course.

Things to Do in the Garden in April

April 10, 2020/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

From Trellis Blog – Apr 8, 2020 | Written by sdorn

WOODY ORNAMENTALS

Plant container-grown trees and shrubs
Last chance to plant balled-and-burlapped trees and shrubs (may no longer be available in your area)
Fertilize actively growing trees, shrubs, and ground covers
Prune conifers that are in the candle stage, broadleaf evergreens, and overgrown shrubs
Prune out any storm damage or dead limbs
Prune spring-blooming shrubs, like forsythia and azaleas, after they finish blooming
Mulch planting beds for weed control and moisture conservation
Control emerged weeds by hand or with herbicides (follow label directions)
Scout for diseases on trees and shrubs (azalea leaf gall, azalea petal blight, dogwood anthracnose (sometimes seen in the north part of the state), fireblight, cedar apple rust, powdery mildew, entomosporium leaf spot, black spot on roses, botrytis), but be sure to get a diagnosis and Extension recommendation before attempting to treat
Scout for insects on trees and shrubs (aphids, fall webworm, bagworms, dogwood borers, Eastern tent caterpillar, lace bugs, leaf miners, mealy bugs, thrips, and scales)

HERBACEOUS PLANTS

Plant summer-flowering bulbs, such as dahlias and gladiolus
Plant summer annuals according to your frost-free date (click here if you need to check)
Fertilize actively growing perennials and annuals
Consider replacing cool-season annuals late this month
Plant perennials
Plant annual herbs
Sow warm-season annual seeds in garden beds
Deadhead any spent flower blossoms
Scout for insects and diseases
Hand-weed for weed control
Mulch planting beds for weed control and moisture conservation
Fight the urge to cut back daffodil and any other spring-blooming bulb foliage (allow it to die naturally)

VEGETABLE GARDENS

Harvest cool-season spring crops (lettuce, chard, broccoli, peas)
Prepare soil for planting
Sow warm-season vegetable seeds (beans, squash, corn)
Plant warm-season transplants (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants)
Water transplants and seedlings, as needed
Hand-weed and cultivate as needed for weed control; click here for other options
Mulch planting beds for weed control and moisture conservation

TURF

Warm season turf grasses
- Establishment of new turf, in the southern part of the state
- Fertilization begins, based on soil test results, when soil temperatures at the 4-inch depth are consistently 65F and rising
- Core aeration, in the southern part of the state
- Begin planning for any renovation efforts
- Scout for weeds. Since spring green-up is when warm-season grasses are most susceptible to herbicide injury, the mower can serve as a weed control option. If possible, mow regularly.
- Scout for fungal diseases on turf (brown patch, dollar spot). A single fungicide application can protect the grass for four weeks. It is still early spring and a second fungicide application will likely be warranted.
Cool season turf grass
- Fertilize cool-season grasses, like tall fescue and bentgrass, and grow as many roots as possible to prepare the grass for the upcoming summer heat stress.
- Mid-month, post-emergent weed control for summer broadleaf weeds
- Scout for fungal diseases on turf (brown patch, dollar spot, pythium blight, melting out)
- Scout for insects (cutworms)

Warm-season grasses are beginning to transition into active growth. All the rainfall this winter has resulted in wet soils which are generally slower to warm as water is a buffer of heat.

About sdorn – Sheri is the State Coordinator for the Georgia Master Gardener Extension Volunteer Program and Extension Specialist for Consumer Ornamentals. When she is not traveling about the state of Georgia admiring the work of Georgia Master Gardener Extension Volunteers, she spends time in her own (real and virtual) gardens. Many thanks to Extension Specialists Bodie Pennisi, Clint Waltz, Elizabeth Little, Lisa Ames, and Bob Westerfield for contributing to this post!

Beware the Caterpillar Invasion

August 15, 2019/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

By NG Turf

This time of year it’s important to keep an eye out for two pests that often invade Georgia lawns. Both fall armyworms and also webworms are voracious caterpillars that can infiltrate in large numbers and damage your grass. Armed with information about how to find and annihilate them, you can keep your lawn healthy and beautiful.

Fall Armyworms

As their name suggests, fall armyworms usually begin their rampage in early fall, but they may show up as early as July or August, feeding on our lush grassy lawns. Some sightings have already been reported this year, and because the striped caterpillars appear in large numbers, they can cause major damage in short order.

A pest for more than a century in the Southeast, the adult moths migrate each spring from Florida, where they overwinter in the mild climate. Each moth lays a few dozen to a few hundred eggs along the way as they move northward, building populations exponentially throughout the summer months. They reach most areas of Georgia by early fall and continue to reproduce—and eat our grass—until the first frost.

Damage
Armyworms harm virtually all turf grasses by chewing the plant tissue and creating ugly webpatterns in the leaves. The armyworm larvae strip foliage in one area of the lawn and move, usually all together, to the next source of food. Moving en masse like an army earned these destructive critters their military designation.

Damage varies in severity depending on the type of grass and the overall health of the grass prior to the infestation. Armyworm damage rarely kills a lawn on its own, but it can significantly weaken your grass, making it far more susceptible to failure from drought and disease.

Win the War
Watch for birds clustered in a particular area of your lawn, often an early indication your yard has been invaded by armyworms. The caterpillars are dark in color with several light stripes down the length of the body and an inverted “Y” at the head. Young armyworms measure ½ to ¾ inch long, reaching 1-1/2 inches before burrowing into the soil for the pupa stage. They emerge two weeks later as adult moths, laying eggs to begin the cycle again.

If the worst happens and armyworms do march into your lawn and flowerbeds, treating with insecticide is your best defense. The University of Georgia extension office recommends Bt insecticides, which are nontoxic to humans and eradicate caterpillars without harming beneficial insects in your yard. Several brands are readily available at home and garden centers.

Sod Webworms
Another dastardly caterpillar that feeds on Georgia lawns this time of year is the sod webworm. The adults appear as small gray or brown moths, which scatter eggs as they fly around the yard. Once hatched, the caterpillars chew on the tender grass blades, creating notched, ragged edges. Sod webworms prefer newly established lawns, and they attack many grass varieties, including Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede, and St. Augustine.

A major infestation can wipe out a lawn in a matter of days, so if you notice irregular brown patches in your otherwise green yard, try a soap flush in the affected area to confirm. Add two or three tablespoons of liquid dish soap to a gallon of water and spread with a watering can over a small 3-foot by 3-foot section in the affected area. If webworms are present, the soap solution will force the caterpillars to the surface of the lawn.

Look for caterpillars up to ¾ inch, covered in fine hairs with a dark head. Their bodies vary in color from light pink or green to a yellow brown. Treat the infested areas with Bt insecticide in the early evening, when the caterpillars begin to feed.

If you have additional questions about pest infestations or unidentified damage to your grass, give us a call at 706-800-4010.

Spring Turfgrass Report

May 11, 2018/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

We’ve received several calls and emails recently expressing concern about poor turfgrass green-up conditions. We reached out to UGA Extension Specialist, Dr. Clint Waltz, for his opinion:

“Aeration and patience would be suggested. Over the past 7 to 10 days environmental conditions have finally become favorable for growth of warm-season species. Considering April 2018 was the coldest April since 1997 , delayed green-up is not a surprise. Looking at the forecast for the next 7 to 10 days, growth of warm-season grasses should be expected and now is a good time to consider aeration to stimulate stolons and rhizomes to initiate new growth.

I am aware of NCSU Dr. Grady Miller’s observations and comments regarding cold temperature damage in North Carolina. For lawns in Georgia, I have not observed or been notified (e.g. email, text, etc.) of similar widespread cold related injury. Even in coastal areas that had abnormal snowfall this past winter, St. Augustinegrass and centipedegrass are recovering, albeit slow. Relative to the previous 16 years I have been at UGA, I would consider the 2018 spring green-up in the Atlanta /North Georgia area as “normal”.

Disease (e.g. Large Patch) is common during spring green-up, especially for zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustinegrass. The cooler temperatures and wet conditions of March and April may have exacerbated incidences of disease this spring but disease is not “cold damage”.”

Dr. Waltz will continue to observe turfgrass the next few weeks and provide updates.

Contact Dr. Waltz @ cwaltz@uga.edu

Pest Alert: February Monitoring for Granulate Ambrosia Beetle

February 8, 2018/in Uncategorized /by madisonstudios

Granulate ambrosia beetle, Xylosandrus crassiusculus (Mot.) [Previously known as the Asian ambrosia beetle]

Introduction: Granulate ambrosia beetle (Fig. 1) is a serious pest of woody trees and shrubs in Georgia. These tiny beetles were first detected in South Carolina in the 1970’s and have spread across the southeastern US.

Host plants: Woody ornamental nursery plants and fruit trees are commonly affected. In spring or even in late winter (around mid-February), a large number of beetles can emerge and attack tree species, especially when they are young. Some highly susceptible tree species include Styrax, dogwood, redbud, maple, ornamental cherry, Japanese maple, crepe myrtle, pecan, peach, plum, persimmon, golden rain tree, sweet gum, Shumard oak, Chinese elm, magnolia, fig, and azalea.

Biology: The female beetles land on the bark of woody trees. Then, they bore through the soft wood and vascular tissues (xylem vessels and phloem) of the tree. They settle in the heartwood and begin making galleries. Eggs are laid in these galleries. Adults introduce a symbiotic fungi into the galleries as a food source for the developing larvae. Click here to read more.

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